Wine Region: Tuscany

(2026) Taking its name from the ancient rectory of San Bruzio, grapes here are harvested in tranches two weeks apart, to develop flavour on the vine but retain freshness. It stays on the lees in stainless steel for six months. There's a richness to this, aromatically nutty, almost marzipan-like, with quince and fig. On the palate there is a touch of late harvest sweetness, but also a muscular, grippy character that fills the mouth with texture and flavour. Limpid and textured, there is balanced acidity in an intriguing wine that flirts with Fino Sherry and heady Viogner in its complex make-up.

(2026) The Fiorini bottling comes from a single vineyard of late-harvested Vermentino, which is co-planted with 15% Viognier. Time in bottle has subdued the aromatics here compared to the 2022 bottling tasted in 2024 (so two years old, rather than six years old). It is burnished and lightly honeyed and nutty, something like apricot kernel coming through as well as some stone fruits. Served not too cold, this has a Cox's pippin character, fine, sapid flavour with acid quite salty, but the rich apricot and a squeeze of orange gives plenty of palate freshness and character still.

(2026) A refined and intense 'super-Tuscan' from the coastal Bolgheri region of Tuscany, it is 100% Merlot and matured for 16 months in new French oak barrels, conical cask and amphorae. The nose is a flood of liquidised cherries and blackcurrants, graphite and cedar and a touch of herbaceous character lifting the aromatics. In the mouth it is medium- to full-bodied, again intense and concentrated, with a sophisticated layering of glossy black fruit, sweet, ripe tannins and pert acidity that mingles with the herbs and cedary barrel spices into a long finish. A classical style and beautifully done.

(2026) It was only a few months ago that I drank my last bottle of San Felice's Poggiorosso from the 2010 vintage, a polished and refined wine of savoury richness that was drinking beautifully and earned 95 points from me. Since then, in 2014, Chianti Classico introduced a whole new category for its top tier wines, called 'Gran Selezione'. To qualify, grapes must come from estate vineyards, the wine must reach at least 13% abv, and they must be aged for a minimum of 30 months before release. In 2021 this was further refined by the introduction of 'Additional Geographic Mentions', or UGAs. This allows Gran Selezione wines to add the name of the commune from which they come, giving a clearer sense of individual difference and identity - much like Bordeaux has Pauillac, St Julien, Margaux, etc. For this 2020 vintage of Poggiorosso, now designated Gran Selezione, that has been enacted by adding its commune of Castelnouvo Berardenga to the label. The wine carries similar hallmarks to that 2010, though naturally is much more youthful. 100% Sangiovese, it is fermented in large wooden vats and spend around two years in 500 litre barrels, all new, plus a further year in bottle. Lovely blood-streaked and graphite, classical nose. Lots of cedar and juicy cherry, a touch of minerality, but a chocolaty depth too, it already drinks well, but will no doubt do so for a decade more.

(2026) The Riserva is produced on the best vintage years, from Sangiovese grapes grown at between 380 and 480 metres altitude. It is aged for 36 months, moving from concrete vats to large French oak casks and finally tonneaux. Lovely maturing nose, with finesse of subtle tobacco and minerals, lots of pencil shaving finesse. Pure, beautifully balanced palate with savoury cherries and a twist of liquorice, finishing on peppery spice. No UK stockist at time of review.

(2026) Clearly the beautiful maturity of this 16-year-old wine has added a point or two to my score, as it was drinking beautifully. Sangiovese with 10% Canaiolo, it opens with classical leaf tobacco, smoke, bright supple cherries. Small herbs and game notes, then medium bodied and supple finish with sandy, fine tannins. Price and stockist quoted are for a much more recent vintage at time of review.

(2026) From certified organic vineyards in the Lamole UGA, sited at 420 to 580 metres above sea level. This ferments in 50hl truncated, cone-shaped casks before 30 months in medium-sized oak barrels and barriques. Lovely svelte round and plush opening here, moving on to a palate of fleshy cherry and plum. Zipping acidity with taut tannins ensures a brisk character into a gently spicy finish.

(2026) Again from Albarese and limestone, and vines that are 25 to 30 years old. Same elevage as the 2019 with 18 months in 500-litre French oak, 50% new. Loads of cedar and spice, there's a gamy edge, smokiness, all that game and blood-streaked combination that is visceral and attractive. Such lovely balance and polish here, long with a firmer core of acidity and taut, fine tannins.

(2026) 100% Sangiovese from Albarese and limestone soils, this spent 18 months in 500-litre French oak barrels, 50% new. So classically Bordeaux-like with maturity, showing cedar over red cherries and more black fruit, graphite and a wisp of wood smoke then fragrant, floral top notes. The palate too is very smooth, svelte, spiced red fruits with a savoury bite of orange to the acidity and very fine tannins.

(2026) Composed of 90% Sangiovese plus Merlot, this spends 12 months in French oak barriques, of which 50% are new. It is blood-streaked but bright with shiny blueberry and blackcurrant, plus tobacco to the fore. The palate has a sheen of creamy French oak that adds gloss and modern sophistication. Very attractive, and long.