Wine Region: Crete

(2021) From one of the star estates of Crete, this is a new variety for me - Thrapsathiri - barrel-fermented and aged in second and third fill American and French oak. A little green/gold hue to the colour, and quite creamy and vanilla-touched on the nose, very gently nutty and oxidative in style. In the mouth plenty of sweet fruit, and I can see what Wine Society buyer Matthew Horsley means when he compares it with white Rioja, that lightly buttery and creamy oak filling out the citrus of the finish. Very appealing.

(2021) Another from the excellent Lyrarakis, this one 100% Mandilari with 11% of the grapes sun-dried before fermentation, and ageing 12 months in new and used 225-litre barrels, 47% American and 53% French oak. Almost black in colour, the nose has fragrant spicy oak and a violet touch, something quite gamy and wild in there too, scents of the Cretan garrigue perhaps? In the mouth a big, enveloping style, with copious fruit but medium-bodied, fine, dry tannins and really juicy acidity complementing and giving this cut and energy. Terrific.

(2020) From Heraklion on the island of Crete, this is 100% Liatiko, the local speciality red variety, aged 12 months in larger French oak barrels. Medium-pale ruby in colour it has a beguiling nose, crammed with small red fruits but with a mellow autumnal depth of dried leaves, into tobacco and coffee. On the palate a rush of sweet and ripe fruit, especially raspberry and redcurrant, but that mellow coffee character is there and balanced by a fine, sandy tannic grounding, good acids and a long, savoury and spice-fruity finish.

(2018) Lyrarakis is arguably the best producer on the island of Crete, and champion of the indigenous grape variety Plyto. It's another crystalline, delicate white, a style that Greece can do so well in places like Santorini, floral-touched apple fruit, apple blossom perhaps, with an intriguing aromatic spiciness too. In the mouth it has quite a full, slippery textrue, a background of river stone minerality and plenty of fresh orchard fruits that are dry and savoury, an apple-core acidity to finish. Most certainly a fish (oily fish or firm white fish) or seafood banker.

(2015) From one of my favourite Cretan producers (reviewed in-depth in 2012) this is a subtle but absolutely ravishing little wine that perfectly sums up the Lyrarakis family's obsession with celebrating local varieties, in this case the grape 'Dafni'. Pure and gentle on the nose there are delicate aromas of bay leaf and blossom, a subtle grapefruit peel note and hints of mint and sherbet. In the mouth it is bone dry, but it is textured too, with a great shock of citrus and cool apple and salt acidity.

(2015) Vidiano is a white wine variety which Karavitakis helped to re-discover or re-introduce into modern quality wine on Crete, made by combining late- and early-picked fruit. Extremely aromatic on the nose, with a Torrontes or Muscat-like lift and perfume, nettles, herbs and a whole florist's shop of bouquet. On the palate it does not disappoint: the flavours are tamer than the aromas, but it has personality, herb-laced dry fruit, pithy citrus acidity and length. Fascinating and different. £9.95, The Wine Society.

(2012) Symbolo (or ideogram 131 if you prefer, the symbol on the label signifies the concept of wine in two ancient scripts: Linear B and Cretan Hieroglyphic) is an unspecified blend made from tiny quantities of specially selected grapes, aged for 15 months in oak casks. It is the only release from Lyrarakis of this wine so far and they say "who knows," when the next one will be released: they await the perfect vintage. Dense in colour it really does have a beautiful nose, layered with graphite, pepper and hinting at something floral, with a deep pool of black fruit beneath. On the palate it has lovely balance. There's a core of creamy black fruit running through this, but complex layers of game, minerals and tobacco-like spice are there too, along with firm, grippy tannins and a rasp of acidity. Despite a modest 13% alcohol it is powerful, heady stuff that Lyrarakis thinks will age elegantly.

(2012) An aromatic blend of Muscat, Vilana and Sauvignon Blanc, from higher altitude vineyards with a northern exposition to attain the coolest conditions. The Muscat dominates with its top notes of flowers, geranium leaf and gentle herbaceousness, beneath lies some cool white fruit. In the mouth it's a striking, modern wine, the Muscat again making its presence felt with lots of crunch and citrus, super crisp and dashing stuff with the finish clean as a whistle. Another seafood banker.

(2012) Plyto is a Cretan variety that was at one time the best-known grape of the island, though its plantings have been in steep decline. Family vine-grower Manolis Lyrarakis has preserved and nurtured the variety quite extensively on the family estate. Fine, if slightly generic nose with lemon and a touch of pear and apple fruit, but clean and inviting. Very dry on the palate, underripe apple and lemon dominate here too, but it is very nicely pitched, with some weight on the mid-palate and the cool, clear core of pithy acidity pushing the finish along.

(2012) No oak here ('inox' means stainless steel tanks were used), in a pale-coloured wine with that lovely Assyrtiko fusion of leafy herbs, crunchy apple and salty minerals. It is very expressive and inviting, and on the delivers a lovely mouthful too: it has some weight, spice and texture despite its clarity, a broad pear and apple juicy fruit sweetness being overtaken by citrus-fresh, lemon peel acidity into the finish. Delightful fish and seafood-friendly stuff, would be great with some salt and pepper squid maybe.